Restaurant Review: Xiloa

Xiloa
748 Ninth Street
Durham, NC
(919) 286-1430

As congratulations on my new job, my dear friend Cookie took me out to lunch today (along with a another friend of hers). After a line at the door was found at both Chai and Nosh, we decided to head on over to Ninth Street. Lauren visited Xiloa at the beginning of her new job and promised me there were plenty of veggie options (Cookie is now veggie herself!). So, we decided to try it out!

When we walked in to the small storefront (the old Torrero's on Ninth Street), we were surprised that the place was packed inside. All the tables but one were taken in the back. We grabbed some menus and scurried back there before we lost our chance. After perusing the menu, I realized that Lauren was very correct about the number of veggie options. Most items on the menu could be served either vegetarian or vegan.

We sat at the table for a bit with no service - the American part of me really came out, as I have never done well with the international standard of slow service. Eventually, we were greeted by a very busy woman, who turned out to be owner Ana. She was short staffed that day - there was one cook, and her. After being offered the list of some very in-depth natural sodas, we all decided on water. I didn't know what these sodas tasted like - and Ana informed us that although she had some moon berry in the store, she didn't have enough to offer it to everyone. "I have it, but I won't give it to you," is what she said. Hmm. Well, that's probably what I would want - just give me aqua.

I will run through the dishes we ordered and let you know what we all thought (the descriptions in parentheses are taken directly from the menu):

Indian Taco (your choice of beef, chicken, carne adovada or shrimp with beans or gallopinto piled on a flat piece of crisp frybread and topped with salad and cheese. The Indian Taco can also be made vegetarian with beans, rice, cheese and salad.) I had the vegetarian version of this dish. I ordered the regular size for $5.00. There is a large size for $6.80, but the regular was perfect. The frybread is very fresh - it tastes like funnel cake but without the sweet. On top of the bread is a stewlike mixture of zucchini, potato, carrot and beans with some rice. Excellent. The salad on top cools off the warm feeling you get from the stew. I was stuffed after eating this. Really, really hearty and healthy. And what an awesome lunch for $5.

Arozhongar (Mushrooms marinated and sauteed in a special spiced wine sauce piled over rice - vegan). Cookie ordered this dish. When placing the order, she asked "Can I have it with cheese?" I thought Ana would drop her order book. She very sternly told Cookie that NO, you cannot add cheese. If you want cheese, order something else. ha! Well, Cookie decided to stick with what the chef wanted to serve and took the cheese-less arozhongar. Thank goodness. This stuff was fantastic. Ana informed us that the recipe has 58 ingredients, and she has won numerous awards for this dish. I can understand why. The flavors were intoxicating. In some ways it reminded me of the flavors of West African food - curries with raisins, but it wasn't quite African. Just really amazing. This is probably the restaurant's signature dish. And it's vegan. yay!

Pork Nacatamales (These are a meal in themselves - chicken, pork or vegetables covered in moist corn meal masa with raisins and spices, wrapped in a banana leaf, steamed and topped with mild sauce. Vegan nacatamales are also available. Served with cabbage salad.) I obviously did not eat this, but our third guest at lunch, Jolynn, did. The dish was presented really well. The two rolls were placed on the banana leaf and the sauce over the corn masa provided a great contrast in color - itwas a very deep red. It looked amazing. She really enjoyed it, so you meat eaters will just have to try for yourselves!

Quesillos (A tortilla of boiled fresh mozzarella cheese on a corn tortilla smothered with pickled onions, cabbage salad and cream sauce). We all shared this dish. Xiola prides themselves on the freshness of their ingredients, and this dish is an excellent example of that commitment. The vegetables were all very crisp and very fresh tasting. Although the onions are pickled, there is not too much of a sour taste involved. Imagine a crunchier, tastier, cole slaw, and that is what tops the tortillas. The boiled mozzarella has a great texture and serves as a great compliment to the sweet of the cream sauce. Great, great dish to split with everyone at the table.

So, that was lunch at Xiola. Healthy, cheap and a flavor you probably aren't used to tasting. This is a great place for a meal - I will be going back very soon. Ana chatted with us as we checked out, and she looked a lot more relaxed having the lunch rush at its conclusion. While we dined, she talked with pride about her dishes, and it really shows with how happy all the customers were who were in the restaurant. Xiola is yet another great addition to Durham's ever growing cuisine scene.